A Tree-house / play House.

Not strictly a project from the workshop because it was built outside, but there are few points worth mentioning if you would like to build something similar.

There are literally hundreds of plans and ideas available, so this is just one suggested design.









The garden didn't have a tree large enough to accommodate a real tree house so this design was more a house on stilts. It was designed to fit in a corner of the garden and to make the best use of some old decking timber which was available.

The height of the main platform was 1250mm so that the area underneath could be used for storage or as an extra play area.

The floor plan was a 1200mm square with an open landing to one side to allow access via the stairs. The sides were to be castlelated to make it look like a fort. The main room was to have a roof sloping backwards to keep the rain off so there would be no castlations of the rear wall to allow the rain to exit.

The main structure was supported on 4 legs (2" x 4"), which were diagonally braced underneath for rigidity.









The walls were panelled using feather board. The boards were 125mm wide and the recommended overlap was 25mm. So each side would require

1200mm / 100mm = 12 boards. However this would not give a tall castelation on each end. For this, an odd number of planks would be needed. Therefore the 1200 was divided by 11 and this would give slightly less overlap of :

1200mm / 11 = 109mm or an overlap of :

125mm - 109mm = 15mm.

The door on the outside was a late addition as the customer decided that a slide should be added. This photo also shows a little bench seat underneath which was added to brace the legs and to use up the decking timber.









The stairs were calculated to give equal raiser heights throughout.

So 1250mm was divided by 8 steps to give ~156mm. However once the treads were added (30mm thick in this case), the bottom step ended up larger than the others. So to address this, 30mm was removed from the bottom, but this left the overall height short by 30mm of the required 1250mm.

So to correct this, the 30mm just removed from the bottom, was divided by the 8 treads and this number was added onto each riser height.

This all sounds more complicated than it is, it was really very straightforward.

Two pieces of 200mm thick timber were notched to make the step support beam. So all the notches were 160mm except the bottom one which was reduced to 135mm to make the steps even.









The door was made using a 'Z' frame but the frame was only 3/4 height to accommodate a window. The same feather board was used to panel the door.









To finish, a slide was purchased from EBay and a handrail was made from some plumbing copper,

(click to enlarge)