Each slice was mounted in the chuck and the rim and tread of the wheel were turned just over sized and leaving both at 90º to each other.
The centre hole was centre drilled, drilled and reamed to match the axles.
Finally a recess was machined in the face of each wheel. This was all done in one setting in the chuck to ensure concentricity.

Next each wheel was reversed in the chuck and held by the 90º shoulder previously machined. Then the back was turned to get the wheel to the final thickness (6mm).

To finish the wheels to final size, an arbor equal to the size of the axle was turned and threaded to take a nut.
The top slide was set over to 3º to cut the tread taper and the tool post turned so that the edge of the tool would cut the 10º taper needed on the flange.
Then each wheel was mounted on the arbor and skimmed to the final size.
Finally wheels were fitted to the arbor with the rear face outwards and the 10º taper was added to this side of the rim.

The 6 wheels with matching profiles completed

To drill the crank pin holes the same wheel arbor was used but it was mounted 'off-centre' in the lathe. This could be done using the 4 jaw chuck or as shown here using a suitable piece of packing in the 3 jaw.
A clearance hole was drilled in the jig.
Then each wheel was mounted in turn and the crank pin hole was centre drilled, drilled and reamed to final size.
All the wheels were machined in one setting to ensure all the pins were on the dame radius from the axle.

The wheels were painted before the crank pins were glued in place using Loctite.

To quarter the wheels a simple jig was made up out of 3 pieces of 12mm aluminium plate and some brass thumb screws. The distance between the vertical plates was adjustable, to allow for different gauges. The thumb screws had a point on the end to locate in the axle centres.
The wheels were secured to the shafts with Loctite. The frame had to be included in this assembly, as there were no horn-blocks in this design.